Boge hydromat

Last year while visiting Retro Classics in Stuttgart, i bought a newly renovated Boge Hydromat. This unit is a hydraulic cylinder that sits in the middle of the rear axle on my W108. For a long time, these were impossible to get from the factory, and failed units were replaced with a spring instead. A set up you can find on a pagode from the factory. Luckily, ZF has started to refubish these old Boge Hydromats (Bogebein/hydro compensator) so it is finally possible to experience these cars like the factory meant them to be.

First step was to remove the spring. A friend with a specialist classic Mercedes shop did the work.

And then the Boge Hydromat was mounted.

A testdrive afterwards show the driving characteristics of the car to be quite different. After a bump, if feels stiffer, but not with less comfort. Turning into a corner, it feels more secure and not so loose in the rear end.

All in all a really good upgrade that everyone that has one of these cars needs to get!


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Fabricating new fuel rail brackets part IV

My never ending saga of drilling and tapping aluminium has yet another installment, but this time it is not yet another fail. Of course, you may think my fabricating skills is a big fail, but I am pleased with the results at least…

So I went ahead and bought some new taps and a counter sink.

The counter sink made the hole a lot nicer.

And this counter sinking made the tapping a lot simpler as well. So now the rails are finished. Looks like success to me!

Posted in 1983 Mercedes-Benz 280TE | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

A real workhorse

The S123 300TDT was sold as a real workhorse when it was new. Awesome power from the turbo diesel and a really large storage compartment in the back. Combine that with a tow hitch, and you are prepared for all challenges as a house owner. Or war lord. Whatever.

It may be a little bit ridiculous to use a 35 year old rust free and nice 300TDT to tow a trailer full of crap to the land fill, but, hey, they are meant to be used. And a workhorse needs to be used as a workhorse.

So, this was just a long winded way of telling you that I have som pictures to show. I took five trips to the land fill today with crap from my garden, and I need to do at least five more.


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Fabricating new fuel rail brackets part III

First I cut the brackets roughly to shape with a grinder, then I marked where to drill the fuel rails. First hole is a small pilot hole. I put a piece of tape on the drill bit to know the depth I needed.

And then I drilled the final hole and started to use the M6x1 tap, buuuuut, as you can see, the tap did not last very long. The curse for not buying serious tools I guess…

So my goal of starting the motor today came to an halt, and I need to go out and get a new tap tomorrow. Fun times!


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Fabricating new fuel rail brackets part II

So I measured up the brackets last night and drilled all the holes. I will cut them down to the finished shape later today so that I can mock them up together with the fuel rails and mark up where I need to drill and tap the rails. So, long story short, here are a not very informative picture of drilled uncut brackets:


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Fabricating new fuel rail brackets

Yesterday it was finally time to start to fabricate some new fuel rail brackets. I wanted something really sturdy, so that I knew that whatever happened, I would not get a fuel spill and a burnt out wreck of a car as a result.

I am not an experienced fabricator, but you have to start somewhere, right? To get ideas on how to do this, I googled and looked at lots of photos of fuel rail brackets. My solution needed to be simple to make, and I needed to be able to make it myself.

What I came up with was to use these L-shaped brackets made out of 2mm steel. You can buy them everywhere in Norway that sells building supplies. Cut them down, shape them a little and drill some holes, and they will fulfill my needs perfectly. I may even gold chrome them for the authenthic look during the winter. Here is the bracket:

So i measured where to make the first cut and where to drill the first mounting hole. And I mounted it together with the rail to see where to drill the mounting bolts for the fuel rail.

So I clamped the bracket together with the rail and marked up where to drill the holes in the bracket and in the rail. I will tap the rail afterwards so that I can screw directly into the rail. That is when I learned my first lesson in drilling in aluminium stock. A broken drill bit!

Needless to say, this hole will not come out perfect. I have bought some new bits and will continue the saga this evening. Stay tuned for more updates, hopefully tomorrow.

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New steering wheel in my W211

The day to day driver is a MY2003 W211 E220CDI Avantgarde registered late 2002. The car has been driven 370 000 km according to the odometer now. It started life as a taxi, so who knows if this is true or not…

The steering wheel in this car was extremely well used. The top of it looked more liked suede than anything else. It was gross. However I lucked out, and a friend had a steering wheel that he removed from his car at 60 000 km. He put in a wooden steering wheel instead, I will never understand why someone wants to have a hard and cold wooden steering wheel instead of a soft and delicious leather one..

Here is the new steering wheel. Looks quite good apart from a little spot down on the right.

Here is a comparison between the old and the new

Here are just the old one. Quite worth the swap I thibk


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