Breaking up my 1965 220Sb Heckflosse

I have already shown of my 1964 220b Heckflosse project. I have a 1965 as well, but this one has been in Norway since new, and there was just to much rust on it now to let it live any longer.

I need a lot of parts for my 1964, so therefore I decided to break this one for parts. I have also bought a 1963 190, that I will also break for parts.

Some pictures of the process of breaking up the 220Sb for parts.



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Some interior pictures of the turbodiesel

Took some interior pics to document the car for my insurance company. Olive MB-tex seats in a fabulous condition.

The colours on the pictures taken without a flash is most true to reality.



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Mercedes AMG Classics

I just want to recommend a cool little forum:

There is not that much traffic there, but the quality of the content is high. Some really cool cars there as well, I especially like this one:

An AMG built S123 with M117 5.0 engine. Really cool car!

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1980 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT

I bought this really nice 300TDT over the weekend. According to the odometer it has run 196 000 km, which is very low for a turbo diesel wagon in norway.

I checked it over before buying it, and could not find any rust in the usual places. The interior is also in very good condition and the car is really nice to drive.

The only plans I have with this car going forward is removing the stickers on the windows and the tailgate, as well as removing the spoiler on the tailgate.

Some pictures:



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Next steps in my 280TE project

The underside and the engine bay is now more or less finished. I will probably continue the main parts of this project next year. I am eager to start working on something else for a while. I have a W111 220 that needs a lot of TLC as well.

Next steps on this procect is:

  • AMG side skirts and rear spoiler
  • Exhaust and headers
  • Mounting new fenders and rear tailgate
  • Welding some minor rust spots, particularily on the right rear wheel arch
  • Fresh coat of paint

AMG side skirts and rear spoiler

I already have all the parts. They only need to be stripped of paint before I can paint them and mount them on the car. I hope to tackle this project soon, as I this as something I can do when I am not at the workshop (e.g. preparing the parts for paint). Nice to do some car related stuff while at home too.


Exhaust and headers

This is a big and expensive thing. The exhaust manifolds on my car now is from a 500 and are of the “log-style”. This means that they are really not rated for the amount of power my engine puts out. I may be able to utilize the so called tri-y manifolds, but they may also be way to big for my engine compartment. This leaves me with the custom option.


The rest of the exhaust will be custom made in stainless steel. As there is no readily available options for my car, and the exhaust that I have plainly sucks, I have to do this before next summer.


Mounting new fenders and new rear tailgate

I have new fenders already, and will during the autumn travel to Hamburg and buy a new rear tailgate from Mercedes-Benz. There are some rust on the parts on my car, so before painting anything, I want to fix this as well.

Welding some minor rust spots, particularily on the right rear wheel arch

There are some spots that needs welding. Two spots on the underside that I will tackle myself, and some on the right rear wheel arch that I will get someone professional to fix for me.

Fresh coat of paint

And when all this is said and done, I will paint as much of the car as I can afford. The original paint is really thin in places, and there are som deep scratches that I am not able to remove with polish, since they are deeper than the paint.



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Final ride height

After rolling the fender flares, I decided that the ride height was way too low with the H&R springs. So I decided to use the original springs instead, but shorten them one cm to get the car two cm lower than it was before this whole project started.

I think I hit the nail pretty much straight on the head. The ride height in the front is now, to me, perfect. No rubbing can be felt.

I am not sure about the height in the back yet. It can stay this way until I decide it I want the back lower or not.


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Rolling the fender flares

When I got the car back on the wheels, the tires was almost touching the fender flares. I tried driving the car, but the front tires where rubbing against the fenders all the time, so the car was undrivable.

Keep in mind, my front wheels are 8×16 ET11 Penta wheels. The tires are 205/55-ZR16 Vredestein Ultrac Cento. I do not want to go down in width on the front, so I wanted to make this fit properly.

The way to do this is by rolling the front fender flares. There is an extra lip on the inside that can be rolled up so that the tire will not touch it, and you can move the flare itself upwards and out so that it will give you more space for the tire.

There are special tools made for this job. Some people on Youtube will show you how to do this with a baseball bat, but that is too hillbilly for me.The special tool does not cost that much and is a nice little addition to my tool collection.

Here is the tool:

And here is a couple of shots showing the problem. You can also see where the fender has touched the tire.

The tire is more than a centimetre outside of the fender. Next step is attaching the tool and start to roll the fender. Plenty of videos showing this process on youtube, so I will not bother with making one. After pictures will follow soon.


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